Monday, December 12, 2011

On Mikkeller Single Hop: Simcoe

Simcoe is the name of the game today. My third in a series of reviews of Mikkeller's Single Hop Series (one and two here) showcases the Simcoe registered trademark hop.  Simcoe® can be a hard hop to get. Select Botanicals Group, LLC, the owners of the Simcoe® varietal, have only licensed three farms to grow the hop, all in Washington.

Simcoe starts with spices (pepper), earthiness, and some pine. A bit odd considering the citrus power of Simcoe hops, but the age may be a factor in this. I can't read the code date on the cap, but Rate Beer lists this as a retired style (get it while you can).

The color is dark redish-orange. Reminds me of the color of 70s carpet or upholstery. Moderate head retention leaves thin wisps of bubbles across the surface. In the mouth, caramel malt and piney hops give way to some citrus before mild alcohol finishes the show. The beer is medium bodied with medium-high carbonation. A bit oily.

Overall, this is the best of the single hop series I’ve had so far, but I do wish I had it fresher.

Single hop series reviews:

Monday, December 5, 2011

On Abbaye de Maredsous 8 Brune

Today is a day to celebrate.  Today is Repeal Day.  Seventy-eight years ago today the 21st Amendment to the Constitution of the United States, which repealed the 18th Amendment ban on the " manufacture, sale, or transportation of intoxicating liquors" was ratified, somewhat ironically, by Utah. The repeal of the 18th Amendment is a reason to celebrate. Not just because it restored the right of Americans to drink, but because it restored the right for Americans to conduct themselves in the manner of their choosing.

The 21st Amendment is not merely about being able to get rip-roaring drunk, it's about the most basic of American rights: freedom.  Freedom to drink.  Freedom to express oneself through a chosen art.  And freedom to experience the wide tastes made available through that artistic expression.  And so, today I celebrate.

As it turns out, the dark ages of American beer were just beginning, but luckily today we have a few more options to celebrate repeal day than did the ciserones of 1933. And to that end, I'll be enjoying a bottle of Maredsous 8 Brune, a fine Belgian dubbel produced by Duvel under license from Maredsous Abbey.

The paper wrapping not only protects this bottle from exposure to light during it's 4,100 mile trip to Chicago and on store shelves, but it also implies mystery.  What could be behind the paper curtain?  It's a present waiting to be opened.  Once opened the hefty bottle continues its classic, medieval abbey theme (even though the brand originated in the 1960s), again begging you to taste the history and bygone lifestyle inside.  

"Drink Before: 05/2012" on the cork cage. Maredsous 8 presents itself with a dark, dark, ruby red - Nearly black - color and a long lasting, linen colored head with the consistency of whipped egg whites. Moderate lace clings to the glass.

Caramel, honey, fig, molasses, and chocolate dance an elephant ballet of aromas. Each are big and powerful but they gracefully whisp across the nose. The taste is similar to the aroma, but not as forward. Dark fruit and molasses pull forward first, then some honey shows itself. Hop bitterness balances the sweetness just a bit. The slightest bit of yeast autolysis comes in the end but it's not distracting and is perhaps to be expected in a bottle conditioned beer nearing the end of it's drinkability date. Lingering flavors of molasses and caramel present at the end.

Despite the diabetes educing descriptors of the aroma and flavors the palate is kept relatively clean by just enough carbonation and a surprisingly light body. Great beer.

Monday, November 28, 2011

On Goose Island Old Clybourn Porter (two ways)

On Black Friday I made a stop in at Goose Island's Clybourn Pub to buy their release of King Henry Barleywine. Unfortunately, they sold out in less than 2 hours and had to turn away over 70 people. But I was determined to get some beer so I took a seat at the bar. The opportunity that opened as a result was the chance to try the same beer not only on the typical keg draft system we are used to but also as a cask pour.

Cask ales saw a small surge in popularity a few years ago, but the cost of dedicating an entire tap (with incompatible equipment) to warm, flat beer made it somewhat of a fad and now few places other than a couple of hardcore British pubs offer cask beers. And it's a shame. A properly managed cask beer can be sublime. Heavy carbonation and near freezing temperatures can zap the more delicate malt and alcohol flavors and aromas from otherwise great beers. Being a British innovation it stands to reason that British style beers go great on cask systems, so I had a pull of Old Clybourn Ale from both keg and cask.

The differences in the two pours were apparent right off the bat. While both were a very nice, crystal clear, nearly black ruby color, The head on the cask pour (pictured on the right) was much more dense and formed some mild lacing down the glass, while the keg pour did not.

Both beers exhibited some roasted malt in the aroma but the cask version was a bit more forward in the nose. The taste was similar with roast malt up front with both. The keg version was a bit heavier on the chocolate and coffee tastes and was quite bitter from the roasted malts. The cask version was softer in the bitterness but showed some alcohol and a bit more dark chocolate flavors.

The big difference in the two beers was in the palate. The keg version had medium body and carbonation. Not nearly as smooth as the cask version, which was almost completely flat with just a light tickle of carbonation on the tongue. The cask version was also medium bodied.

Overall I enjoyed both beers tremendously, but the cask version wins this tasting set for both it's superior appearance and more complex flavor.

Thursday, November 24, 2011

On Pairings With Thanksgiving Dinner

It's the time of year where all the newspapers and bloggers compile lists.  The Best... The Worst... The Most... etc.  My favorite form of this list is when The Best gets tied to food and drink.  The best turkey recipe (Alton Brown's brined turkey is, by far, what I consider to be "the best"), the best mashed potatoes, the best stuffing, the best apple pie, and the best beer to go with the most American of holidays, the glutton-fest of Thanksgiving.  The trouble is not everyone agrees on what it is to be "the best".  One man's taste symphony is another's 5-year-old-kid-that-found-how-to-open-the-piano.

So today, instead of creating yet another list of beers to have on Thanksgiving, I have taken a cue from Metacritic and created my meta analysis of Thanksgiving beer pairings.  You can find my complete list of suggestions here.

Topping the list is Belgian Ales.  This category covers Belgian beers from trappists to tripels.  Perhaps nothing goes better with food than Belgian beers.  They are complex enough to have flavors that both complement and contrast a wide variety of foods.

A distant second goes to the neighboring style of Saison.  Saison is another good choice due to it's spicy, complex character and crisp mouth-cleansing palate.  This is my personal favorite style for the holiday.

Bronze goes to Brown Ale.  Another fine choice.  Nothing puts me in the holiday spirit like the roasty and nutty character of a brown ale.

This year I will be going the route of a first Thanksgiving style dinner and drinking Crispin's The Saint, an apple cider fermented with Belgian abby yeast and maple syrup.  It is delicious, and a nice nod to that first meal.

Monday, November 21, 2011

On Three Floyds Robert the Bruce

I don't believe any brewery has created such a devoted homebrew fanboy following as Three Floyds has. It seems every brew they concoct, no matter how wacky (Spazzerak! excepted) becomes an instant classic everyone must drink.  

Yes, I have made the pilgrimage to Dark Lord Day, and I enjoy my Gumballhead, but maybe, just maybe, Three Floyds isn't the Alpha King of craft beer. No need to turn Three Floyds into a Shangri-La of beer. Because if you do that, you stop thinking. And when you stop thinking, you turn into another yes-man. Another fanboy. Another boob willing to accept anything with three F's on the label as liquid gold. They deserve more respect than that. Be critical. Be honest. Be sincere. 

Take Three Floyds for what they are: another good craft brewery doing what craft breweries do: make good beer. And good beer is what they make, as evidenced by my latest tasting: Robert the Bruce. 

The experience starts with bitter malt and a bit of peaty aroma. As a Boilermaker, it saddens me to say that this is the perfect color combination of cream and crimson I have ever seen (such a shame from a Northern Indiana brewery). The head requires a violent pour to generate and it doesn’t last long before retreating to the sidelines. 

Clean malt character on the tongue is punctuated by cherry candy, caramel, and a touch of toffee. Sweet throughout and only slightly balanced by a low lying bitterness either from the roasted malts or hops. A bit cloying at the end, but perhaps that is to be expected from the bigger Scottish ales. The medium bodied and lightly carbonated beer goes down smooth but leaves behind a slightly sticky coating. Quite a nice beer. 

Well made and delicious - as I always expect from Three Floyds - but more complexity would be appreciated.